logbook

MODERN TALES + Ancient places

Travelogues

Rain. Rivers. Rice.

[ Makeni, Sierra Leone] Hello Boys and Girls, and many joyous greetings from my new favorite jam: Sierra Leone. What a place this is! The

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Travelogues

Sierra Leone!

[ Kambia, Sierra Leone] Greetings from Sierra Leone, or Salone as it’s called in the local dialect, Krio. At long last! I arrived here early yesterday

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Travelogues

What Comes Next?

[ Conakry, Guinea ] After nearly two weeks here in Conakry sorting out visas, I’m setting off tomorrow for Sierra Leone. My current plan is a

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Travelogues

Fria & Fellowship

[ Conakry, Guinea ] Fria is a large mining town in the mountains, about 135km outside Conakry. The mine is bauxite, the history colonial and depressing,

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Travelogues

Basse to Bissau

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] The ride from Basse to Bissau took five long, sweaty days. The sweat resulted in heat rash, and the daily hours-long exertion

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Days 3-5

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] The next days were marked by the rhythms of Ramadan, the heat (now 36-38C/97-100F in the afternoon), and a new mechanical problem

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Day 2

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] On Day 2 I turned inland, hoping to follow the south shore of the Gambia river for a few days. Most travelers

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Day 1

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] Greetings from Bissau, the capital of Guinea-Bissau–the fifth (undisputed) African nation on my itinerary. Getting here took me thirteen days, all of

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Travelogues

Errands (and more Drums)

[ Serrekunda, The Gambia ] Today’s ostensible itinerary had two easy-to-follow steps: (1) Pick up my visa from the Guinea-Bissau Consulate (2) Hit the road I

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