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MODERN TALES + Ancient places

Travelogues

Basse to Bissau

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] The ride from Basse to Bissau took five long, sweaty days. The sweat resulted in heat rash, and the daily hours-long exertion

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Days 3-5

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] The next days were marked by the rhythms of Ramadan, the heat (now 36-38C/97-100F in the afternoon), and a new mechanical problem

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Day 2

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] On Day 2 I turned inland, hoping to follow the south shore of the Gambia river for a few days. Most travelers

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Travelogues

Along the Gambia: Day 1

[ Bissau, Guinea-Bissau ] Greetings from Bissau, the capital of Guinea-Bissau–the fifth (undisputed) African nation on my itinerary. Getting here took me thirteen days, all of

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Travelogues

Errands (and more Drums)

[ Serrekunda, The Gambia ] Today’s ostensible itinerary had two easy-to-follow steps: (1) Pick up my visa from the Guinea-Bissau Consulate (2) Hit the road I

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Travelogues

Getting to The Gambia

[ Serrekunda, The Gambia ] Greetings one and all, and Ramadan Kareem! I’m writing you from Serrekunda, The Gambia, where I’ll be staying a few more

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Travelogues

Urban Life: Dakar

[ Dakar, Senegal] Bonjour Transglobalistes! Today is my 10th day in the capital–so far a fantastic experience. I have been piecing together places to stay

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