[ Essam, Ghana]

I just returned from a moonlit bike ride through Essam, a small town in Ghana where I’ve spent the past two nights. Today was market day–always a great window into local culture. After visiting the Fried Chicken Lady and the Yam Lady (named after the edibles I procure from them), I coasted back to my small guest house room and started preparing for tomorrow morning’s departure.

Since entering Ghana the roads have reverted to the ubiquitous West African red-clay gravel. There has been intermittent rain at night, but not enough to keep the clouds of orange-red dust at bay. The cost to me has been an annoying case of bronchitis (hence the two-day layover here), but it’s a small price to pay to be back on “real” African roads. Tomorrow’s path–given to me by the chief of Oseikojokrum–leads into the rainforest for the next four to five days: crappy roads and trails instead of highways. Just like I like it.

Being back in an English-speaking country is a great relief in many ways, and the Ghanaian experience thus far rates near the top of all my African travels so far.

I’ll have to provide more info later, when I get to one of the larger towns I plan to pass through on my way northeast. For now though, I hope you are all well and happy.

Namaste,
—jim